Edward Schieffelin has written an intriguing book that
elucidates the lives of the Kaluli people in Paupa New
Guinea (1). They have a society based upon a principle in
cultural anthropology termed reciprocity, meaning that
people in this society feel an obligation to both give and
receive. Food is no exception to this rule.
The giving and sharing of food carries great significance
in defining relationships: "[It] represents the
general mode of establishing or adjusting relationships
among all people--friends and kinsmen... [it] does
not merely express a social relationship; it validates and
develops it." Additionally, "the giving and sharing of food
among the Kaluli communicates sentiment; it conveys
affection, familiarity, and good will" (1).
Formal relationships, such as those between a host and
his or her guest, are based upon the giving and receiving of
food. This is most evident during formal occasions such as
ceremonies. At these times, hosts will prepare and serve
food to guests as part of a welcoming gesture. Hosts, even
if they are hungry, will not eat the same food as that given
to the guests for two main reasons: first, this is a sign of
respect toward the guest. Second, and more importantly, the
giving of food is a sign of the distance between the host
and the guest (1).
The
relationship between host and guest is thus understood as
distant, thanks to food practices. On the other hand, among
the Kaluli food renders the relationship between close
friends intimate, signified by the physical sharing of food.
When two friends share food, this is in fact the
consummation of their relationship. The food they share now
carries a special meaning and they often call each other by
the name of that particular food (1).
Rare delicacies (such as meat) are always shared; they
are never eaten without being offered to others, especially
among real kinsmen. Within these relationships, food and
wealth are shared freely "with some expectation of future
reciprocation, but no formal obligation" (1). For example,
in our culture, two college roommates that always shared
pizza late at night would, in Kaluli culture, shout across
campus, "Hello! Pepperoni pizza!" whenever they crossed
paths.
The intimacy and absence of obligation present in shared
food is illustrated most profoundly in the context of
marriage. Although marriage is an example of exchange in
that it involves trading a woman for some form of payment,
this is not the foundation of the actual relationship
between the man and the woman (1).
Often, if two strangers are married they spend time
getting to know one another before engaging in sexual
relations. The first step towards intimacy is when "the wife
cooks some food and gives it to her husband over the
partition and touches his hand." After that, "they make sago
[the staple food in the Kaluli diet] together for
the first time and begin sexual relations" (1). Clearly, it
is the sharing of this experience that symbolizes and indeed
initiates their sexual intimacy.
Once this closeness has been established, a greater
network of marriage ties are formed between the husband and
the wife's family by giving meat, especially to the wife's
true brothers (1). However, this giving is on a different
level than sharing, and appropriately establishes more
distant ties.
Just as sharing food creates strong ties, food taboos
prevent such relationships. There is a very strong belief
that if you can't share a person's food, then you cannot
relate to him or her. "Food mediates not only different
social relationships but also different domains of
experience" (1).
For
example, from the time a boy is a toddler until he is
married, he can eat practically any kind of fresh meat he
desires. Once he is married, however, he is expected to give
up fresh meat and eat only smoked meat, as his wife does.
This taboo has two functions. First, it separates the
married men from the boys. Second, it establishes a stronger
bond between the man and his wife because they share the
taboo (1).
Kaluli society and their beliefs about food may seem very
distant from our society, but in reality, their notions
about food are not that different from our own. For example,
"Business negotiations are conducted over cocktails and
lunch; seductions may begin with champagne and oysters;
weddings and birthday parties center around an elaborately
decorated cake; and gifts of food are part of the exchange
at Christmastime" (2).
The same can be said of relationships involving friends.
When we invite people into our homes, it is expected fairly
often that the guest will be offered food or drink, and it
is often considered offensive if our guests do not accept
what is offered to them. Many social occasions are spent
going to dinner together or meeting for lunch. If one were
limited in what he or she could eat, it might even become
difficult to establish friendships and find time to spend
with newly made friends.
Culture, one of the most interesting and phenomenal
aspects of human nature, is often defined in terms of the
interdependence between people that are not related by
blood. It is unique in that culture is made of, made by, and
made for people, and that its preservation is often
synonymous with the preservation of Homo sapiens and of life
as we know it.
As prominent anthropologists have noted, "All animals
feed, but humans alone eat" (2). Perhaps a more conscious
awareness of the importance of eating and of the meanings
associated with giving and sharing food can result in a
better understanding of who we are, where we have come from,
and where we are going.
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